Shooting position for rugby: following the action

More photos here: http://ow.ly/F89kW

When shooting rugby or soccer, sometimes I stay behind a goal line instead of following the action along the sideline. Besides laziness, there is actually a couple of legitimately good reasons for doing so. The action of these sports looks good from the goal line position – the players face the camera as they run towards the goal. Being stationary also allows me to find a comfortable, low-angle position to shoot from.

On the other hand, following the action along a sideline (when it is allowed, which is not the case at MLS soccer games, for example) provides more opportunities to shoot close-ups of the players and also offers more variety of the action.

This past Saturday was unusually cold for Victoria. In fact, it snowed the night before. Although I dressed for the weather for our university’s rugby game, moving around instead of sitting in one place seemed like a good idea. I wrote before that I usually carry my Canon EOS-1D X with a 300mm f/2.8L IS USM lens on a Black Rapid Y-strap, but this time, I attached the lens to a monopod, which was extended to a height that allowed me to shoot from a standing position. Normally, a lower shooting position, such as standing on one knee, is preferable for sports, but I was willing to sacrifice it for extra mobility (no need to fiddle with the monopod – just set it on the ground, point and shoot). I attached the lens collar directly to the monopod, without a ball head. To frame the shots, I simply tilted the entire monopod. I kept the collar loosely closed around the lens, which allows me to quickly rotate the camera to a vertical shot position.

My associate Armando was shooting the same game from the goal-line, low position using a Canon EF 500mm f/4L IS USM lens on a Canon EOS 7D Mark II body. With the crop sensor, this combination gave him a very long effective focal lens, allowing to shoot closeups of the action from the opposite side of the pitch. Also, low camera position was excellent for capturing the flying pieces of mud being kicked up by the players.

Between our two shooting positions and different focal lengths used, we captured a good variety of shots from the game.

More photos here: http://ow.ly/F89kW

Basketball photography: autofocus speed

More photos here: http://ow.ly/F5FN8

The main drawback of using the Canon EF 85mm f1.2L II USM lens for shooting indoor basketball is that this lens focusses rather slowly. As I wrote in another post, the Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM lens, on the other hand, is lightning fast, especially when paired with a built-for-sports DSLR, like a Canon EOS-1D X.

At the yesterday’s game of our university’s team, my associate Armando had an opportunity to directly compare the autofocus speeds of the 1D X and his recently-acquired Canon EOS 7D Mark II. He tried both cameras with a 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM lens, and his impression was that the 7D Mark II was slightly slower of the two. We had a hypothesis of why that might be the case: it is possible that this apparent lag in response is due to a lower battery voltage of the 7D Mark II. The massive battery of the 1D X probably drives the motor, which turns the optical elements of the lens, slightly faster.

When shooting a game like basketball, the autofocus speed is critical for being able to follow the rapidly accelerated players. Having said this, yesterday, I still used the 85mm f1.2L II USM lens because of its incredibly shallow depth of field.

Note: The most important of all camera settings to check before starting an action photo shoot is the autofocus mode. It should be set to AI SERVO, which makes the camera to continue tracking the subject if it moves after the focus has been acquired. In contrast, the ONE SHOT mode, while giving more accurate focus on motionless subjects, does not allow continuous tracking of a moving subject.

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Finding time for photography

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All the things that are worth doing, take time. (I’d like to credit someone for this quote, but too many people said it.) Photography for me is a part-time pursuit, so finding time to do it seriously has not been trivial. However, it hasn’t been particularly difficult either. How can this be? Actually, photography is naturally integrated in most of my activities, both within and outside work.

The main part of my work is academic research in fluid mechanics. In my lab, we use flow visualization (photography of fluid flows). While the goals are far from artistic (we measure forces on submerged objects, etc.) and the techniques are highly specialized (we use lasers as light sources, for example), the basic concepts are the same as in conventional photography. So there is considerable cross-pollination between my interests in experimental fluid mechanics and taking pictures.

Family activities are even more easily connected to picture-taking. Photography gives focus to our vacation trips. It keeps us closer to our families and friends all over the World. Sharing my photography skills with friends feels good, because there are not many other options to give something as a gift, without buying it. Photographs are something of value that I can create myself. Hopefully, this makes them more personal as a gift. So doing photography while spending time with family and friends does not take away from personal time, but enhances it.

It is the same with my practice of kendo. Taking pictures of matches and practices is not only interesting from photography point of view, but also allows me to study kendo more deeply. In fact, I wrote about balancing these perspectives in this post.

I believe that if we look at our activities closely enough, we find that there is no such thing as multitasking. Having said this, we do variety of things in our lives, and sometimes certain activities, skills or interests enhance our experiences in other areas.

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Selecting photos for contest

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Selecting my favourite kendo photos for a photo contest turned out to be more difficult than I thought. First of all, I realized that I did not have that many photos of kendo. This is largely because practicing this Japanese martial art (any martial art, for that matter) and photographing it are mutually exclusive. Still, I have a few shots from tournaments, taken after I had been quickly eliminated from competition.

Keeping in mind that the goal of the contest is to produce a calendar for fundraising, I was looking for high-impact shots, not necessarily those that would be interesting from the standpoint of studying kendo. Also, I wanted to submit a uniform-looking selection, so I decided to convert all submitted shots to black-and-white (or monochrome, to me more precise). Actually, I found that a present called “Yellowed 2” from Nik’s SilverFX 2 plugin works well for kendo photos (after removing the image border).

Converting to monochrome also serves two other purposes: it reduces appearance of noise and it removes distractions from the background. Kendo matches are usually held in school gymnasia, which are painted in colours that are quite horrible for artistic photography. Also, it is next to impossible to avoid the spectators in the background, who wear clothes of all sorts of colours. Even is they are out of focus because of the shallow depth of field (I used Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM lens wide open), the distracting colours are still there. Converting the photos to B&W makes the background colours uniform, which enhances apparent subject isolation.

So my contest submission is done. Would it be nice to win? Sure! After all, the first prize is a ticket to the World Kendo Championship in Tokyo. Wouldn’t it be nice to say: “I was selected to go to the WKC!” Oh, the irony… As I said, kendo photography and kendo practice are mutually exclusive.

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Family Christmas card idea

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This year, we wanted to take family photos that we could use for a printed Christmas card, but did not want a formal, “studio” look. My wife and I took some photos of each other and our daughter, while we were painting wooden Christmas tree decorations in our living room. The photos were not strictly “candid”, since we were aware of the camera, but we used only ambient light to imitate the candid, spontaneous photo style.

The lighting was quite dim, so the photos turned out quite noisy. This is Ok, however, since the prints are going to be very small, so they can handle quite a bit of noise reduction in post-processing. We used a Canon EF 35mm f/1.4L USM lens on a 1D X camera body. I set it to a manual mode with f/1.4, 1/200 sec and auto ISO. I found that our daughter moves sufficiently fast, and the camera with the 35mm lens needs to be sufficiently close to her, that a slower shutter speed gives too much motion blur.

For a group portrait of all three of us, I set the camera on a tripod and used a 10 sec timer. After a few tries we got a decent shot, but shooting with the wide aperture gave a narrow depth of field, and our daughter ended up being slightly out of focus. Hopefully, this will look Ok in a small image on the card.

A really precious and unexpected moment for us happened when our daughter walked over to the camera that was sitting on the tripod and started taking photos of us. Below is her very first photograph. As a parent, I am biased, naturally, but I like it!

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How much processing is enough

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When doing artistic image processing, knowing when to stop is important. In a non-digital world, for example, when painting, continuing to paint beyond a certain point could actually ruin the picture. The colours would become dirty and lose vibrance. With a digital image, there is always a possibility to undo the last action, so as long as the versions are saved regularly, there is no danger of losing all the work. However, there is certainly a point of diminishing returns, when doing a lot of work results in progressively less and less noticeable changes in the image.

I find that some image adjustments are almost always worth doing. They are cropping, colour balance and exposure adjustments. Playing with them does take some time, but the results are significant and there is a good chance of drastically improving an image by playing with these tools.

On the other hand, more detailed work, such as local dodging and burning, using a Liquify tool in Photoshop, skin smoothing in portraits, etc. is not always necessary. Of course, the more work you put in the image, the better it ultimately becomes, but the return on the time investment decreases. There is one counter-argument to this, though, which is quite significant to me. When I spend time working on an image, I am not only investing time in improving it, but also in learning new skills and techniques. In the long run, this makes me more efficient overall. I learn which methods work or don’t work for certain types of images. I also learn to apply various methods faster.

Generally, whether an image is over-processed or not is a very subjective question. I believe that in order to make a photo unique, I have to touch most of its pixels with a brush (I use a Wacom graphics tablet) at some point in the editing process. Having said this, time is a very precious resource, and while I am doing fine tweaks, which might not be noticed by anyone, except myself, I am not doing something else, for example, shooting more photos or learning new techniques. In my experience, the “optimal” stopping point in post-processing is actually not a true optimum, in the optimization theory sense of the word. Rather, it is a bit of a moving target. Finding the balance between under- and over-processed image is like riding a bicycle: sometimes, I lean more one way, sometimes – the other. The important thing is doing it consistently and avoiding extremes.

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Time management for photo projects

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Sometimes, when a photo shoot results in a couple of thousands images that need to be sorted through, post-processed and deliver to the client, time management becomes an issue. For me, photography is a part-time pursuit, so finding time to move the large projects along is an issue, which I continuously deal with. Lately, I found it effective to adopt an approach that I’ve been using in my work as a professor – working in brief regular sessions.

This concept applies to so-called “deep work” – something that needs to be done and is fundamentally important (such as doing research and reading technical literature), but that is not urgent and “in your face” (such as answering email and attending meetings). I first learned about it from a book called “Tomorrow’s Professor: Preparing for Careers in Science and Engineering” by Richard M. Reis. He describes that people, who are productive academically (read: publish many research papers) trend to work in brief, regular sessions. There is nothing surprising in this (it’s kind of eating an elephant one bite at a time), but in Reis’ observation, both words “brief” and “regular” are important. Brief work periods help avoiding burnout, and regular sessions ensure that progress is being made (otherwise, lots of time would be wasted to re-start the project at the beginning of every session).

For my photo projects, I try to adapt the same principle, particularly when some creative image editing is required. I work on a couple of images every day, as a way of taking a break from other tasks. This way, I can engage and have fun with the photos, and it doesn’t feel like work. After all, someone said that starting a photo business is a sure way to kill a perfect hobby, and I am determined to avoid that.

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Photographing newborns

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Newborn photography is a very popular genre because it represents a major emotional milestone for any family. Overall, babies are easy to photograph, compared to toddlers, for example, but there are a few points that I keep in mind to improve the images and the photo shoot experience (which is probably at least as important for the young family as the photos themselves):

  • The best time to for a newborn portrait is within the first ten days of their life. After that, babies lose their natural curled-up posture, which makes iconic images of a sleeping child so cute. The first couple of weeks are also some of the busiest for the new parents, so it’s good to plane the shoot in advance.
  • It’s important to keep the room very warm (barely comfortable for adults) – babies get cold very easily.
  • Babies’ eyelids are very thin, so the flashes can disturb their sleep. The opportunities to capture the “sleeping baby” photos may be few. Of course, there is an option to shoot with natural light, if there is a large window in the room.
  • Post-processing is a must. Baby’s skin is not a smooth as we are used to think. In fact, it is spotty, scaly and translucent, showing all the tiny blood vessels. It is also very red, compared to an adult’s skin tone (I am talking about a white baby here – different races would have their own differences).

Overall, I think newborn portrait are a lot of fun, particularly because of the opportunity to capture the emotional connection of the adults and the newest member of the humankind. Taking this king of photos always feels like a privilege.

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Shooting hockey: dealing with low contrast

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At yesterday’s ice hockey game, I used Canon EF 300mm f/2.8L IS USM lens to shoot the action through transparent plastic panels that surrounded the rink for safety of the fans. The panels were covered with scuff marks from the puck hits, which did not interfere with focussing, since the lens hood was, practically, touching the panels. However, the resulting photos showed significant loss of contrast.

I corrected the images in Lightroom by moving “Blacks” slider to the left until the black levels are clipped (around -75 in most of my images). To compensate for the large amount of light reflected from the ice surface, the “Highlights” slider also has be moved to the left (my typical values were around -50).

Generally, I found that the 300mm f/2.8L lens worked well on a full-frame camera (Canon EOS-1D X). A friend of mine was shooting with a Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM lens on his Canon EOS 7D Mark II (with a crop sensor), which gave him more flexibility of a range of focal lengths without sacrificing the reach at the long end of the zoom range.

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Retouching portraits of children

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Retouching children’s portraits requires a surprising amount of skin smoothing. Baby’s skin is a proverbial reference for smoothness. This is why it is expected that skin in a child’d portrait would be impeccably smooth. In reality, children have very thin, quite translucent skin, so an unretouched portrait shows variations of colour, as well as small blood vessels under the skin. While this image is technically accurate, it appears unnatural, because of our expectations of smooth baby skin.

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I have just finished post-processing a series of photos that my associate Armando and I took last week for an advertisement campaign of a dance school. I used Portrait Pro Studio 12 – a retouching software that can be called as an add-on from Photoshop. I found that the default settings for a “girl under 12 years old” result in too much processing for my taste. Through some trial and error, I found that these global tweaks give more reasonable results:

  • Turn off face sculpting and lighting effects. Children’s faces are rather round and flat; the Portrait Pro algorithms for enhancing the shape of the face detract from these features.
  • Reduce the default amount of skin smoothing (controlled by the Master Fade slider under Skin Smoothing Controls) by half.

Before applying the Portrait Pro filter, which appear on a separate layer, I make a stamp visible layer underneath it (create new layer, then press Shift-Option-Command-E). This way, if at a later point I decide that the retouching effects are too strong, I can reduce the opacity of the layer containing them to tone them down.