Making holiday greeting cards

AA5Q3212_10-11-2014.jpg

I have been considering various options for sending greeting to family and friends for the Christmas and New Year. In the past, we ordered paper cards customized with our own photos using iPhoto on a Mac. The quality was excellent for the price. Also, I like to believe that there is something special about a handwritten card that arrives in the mail. Unfortunately, I am almost always late with ordering the cards and then sending them out. This, combined with uncertain snail mail delivery times for some overseas destinations, often caused us to miss the actual holidays, which somewhat defeats the purpose of the holiday cards.

This year, I am considering a fully electronic alternative to traditional, handwritten paper cards, but I still want to convey the personal attention and avoid a cookie-cutter look.

Broadly, there are three options:

  • Printed cards. There are several online printing companies that would accept a custom-designed card, print it and ship directly to the address specified by you. One example is Holiday Cards by Sincerely Ink. For me, the drawback of this option that the greeting would not be written by hand and thus would lack the personal feel.
  • E-cards. There are many options for creating custom e-cards either on an iPad/iPhone or on a Mac (naturally, there are counterparts for Android and Windows machines). I have tried the eCard Express, and was a bit disappointed by the lack of customizable fonts and very few templates that accept your own photos.
  • Fancy emails. This seems to be the most promising option. In OS X, the built-in email client, Mail, has an option of using custom stationery (accessed by pressing the button at the top right of the message window.) Several companies offer stationary sets that include greeting cards. For example, Equinux has stationary sets that cost between $8 and $15, which is substantially cheaper than printing and sending traditional paper cards. Finally, this page gives a comparison of greeting card software for Mac, with Hallmark Card Studio for Mac being the top pick.

Upon considering these options, I am leaning towards creating the card from scratch in Photoshop and sending it as an email attachment. I can use my own photo and draw the graphics elements, such as snowflakes, etc., using a Wacom graphics tablet. I can also incorporate handwritten text into the design, which I think would be a good compromise between a traditional card and an e-card. While my digital card would not be one-of-a-kind, it would still be “handmade” as much as a digital image can be.

AA5Q1271_11-20-2014-Edit.jpg

Photographing water droplets: setup plan

PO-IMG_1460_12-07-13.jpg

I am planning a research project that will focus on close-up photography of liquid drops and splashes. So far, I have no photos of my own to illustrate this post, but here is the equipment list for the setup that will be developed in the Fluids Lab:

  • Camera. I will use a Canon 5D Mark II or 5D Mark III, since it has higher resolution than a Canon EOS-1D X. The higher framing rate of the 1D X offer no advantage in this case, since the motion will be frozen by the flashes.
  • Lens. I will start with a Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro USM Lens, but a Canon EF 180mm f3.5L Macro might be a better option for shooting from greater distance.
  • Shallow water tank (tray). I plan to ask the students to build a shallow water tank that would be quite long, so we could shoot along its length and avoid getting the front and back edges into the frame.
  • Studio flashes. Three Paul C. Buff’s “Einstein” lights will be triggered by dedicated radio triggers. Two of them will be positioned on the sides of the tank, and the third one will be placed behind a semi-transparent background.
  • Intervalometer. I will use a trigger for the camera and the valves that will release the drops. There are several options, including a Time Machine/Drip kit.

I am looking forward to this project (should it be called a still life, even though the droplets would be in motion?) and hope to post the updates with our first droplet images soon.

PO-IMG_2011_12-07-13.jpg

At the theatre

AA5Q4722_12-07-2014-Edit.jpg

Last Sunday, we took our three-years-old daughter to see her first ballet performance – the Nutcracker. She is really into ballet (to my continuing surprise), and she was looking forward to the show for the last week. I thought that the expectation might be too high, but she really enjoyed the whole theatre-going experience and the show itself, even though she was a bit disappointed that Cinderella was not it it.

I wanted to take a few shots of my daughter at the theatre for our family albums (in a virtual sense – perhaps, actual paper albums would not even exist when she grows up). I knew that an iPhone would not do it, as it is quite dark in the theatre. Fortunately, since we have a young child, we always carry a shoulder bag with some snacks, change of clothes, etc., so I put my Canon EOS-1D X with a 35mm f/1.4L USM lens in it too. I wrote earlier that this is a great camera-lens combination for low-light photography. The 35 mm focal length was also sufficiently wide for taking photos from a very close distance, such as sitting right next to a person.

Having seats next to an aisle was very convenient, as I could back away into the aisle to take a wider shot without disturbing others. Naturally, we only took photos before the performance and during the intermission, as we walked through the hallways, but that was all we really wanted.

The colour of the lighting in the theatre was not flattering for portraits, to say the least. In some shots, the shadows ended up with a purple cast, while the highlights were green – nearly impossible to get a realistic skin tone. In this case, I converted the photos to black and white, which also helped with the noise.

AA5Q4606_12-07-2014.jpg

Family portraits: best lens for shooting in natural light

AA5Q3404_11-29-2014.jpg

When my daughter decided to help baking pancakes on a Saturday morning, I could not resist taking a few snapshots of the process. Something in the very fact of her wanting to help to the best of her ability as a three-year-old (even if it actually creates more work at this age) resonates deeply with me, and I always want to capture the moment and the feeling.

I happened to have a borrowed Canon EF 85mm f1.2L II USM lens that day, so I used it to shoot the portraits of my daughter and wife in our kitchen using natural light from a skylight located directly above them. I shot wide open, at f/1.2, which gives such a shallow depth of field, that the typical kitchen clutter in the background is not very distracting. The wide aperture also lets in a lot of light, which allows the ISO (and therefore, noise) remain relatively low.

The inherent challenge of shooting at f/1.2 is getting acceptable sharpness for both people in the shot. The depth of field is so shallow that if I focus on the closest eye of one person, for example, even other parts of the face of the same person are out of focus, not to mention the other subject(s). As my daughter was busy stirring the batter, I asked my wife to try to move as closely as possible to her and then positioned the camera so that both their faces would be approximately the same distance from it.

Despite being tricky to work with, I think the 85mm f1.2L is the best lens for natural light portraits. It is a bit difficult to define what makes this lens so remarkable, but I think it is the combination of sharpness, bokeh and low noise that makes the images taken with it stand out.

AA5Q3452_11-29-2014.jpg

Photo sizes for the web

AA5Q4179_02-22-2014.jpg

I use different settings for Facebook, 500px, Flickr and my website when I export photos from Lightroom.

Facebook resizes photos, unless they are already of one of the pre-defines sizes:

Regular photos 720 px, 960 px, 2048 px
Cover photos 851 px by 315 px

I usually export photos for Facebook  and my own website at 1000 pixels along the long side and use standard screen sharpening. I don’t worry about resizing. Here is a sports photo page that Armando and I use to send updates on our photo shoots, and the photos there are saved with these settings: APshutter.com.

For Flickr and 500px, I upload full resolution photos, which serves as an additional backup. I find that both sites do good job in terms of resizing and displaying the photos.

PO-IMG_5439_01-10-14.jpg

Customizing camera settings

AA5Q9909_10-04-2014.jpg

Modern professional DSLRs can be customized in nearly every aspect of their operation. My Canon EOS-1D X, for example, has a myriad of settings related just to the operation of the autofocus, from relative priority of achieving focus vs releasing the shutter to tracking sensitivity for moving objects, based on their acceleration.

While it is fun to play with the settings, I find, in practice, that knowing which settings are most critical for particular types of shots and learning how to change them quickly during a photo shoot is sufficient. In fact, it is simply not practical to fumble through all possible variations of settings in order to potentially find the optimal combination. Most likely, doing so will result in missing a shot.

I find that it is useful to become familiar with just a few camera configurations and to learn (through experimentation) which ones do not work for a particular situation. Having said this, I try to re-visit the manual periodically and to make sure that I am fully utilizing the capabilities of the camera.

AA5Q5033_03-07-2014.jpg

On using a monopod

http://ow.ly/DItik

A monopod is not a substitute for a tripod for long exposure shots. It enables only slightly slower shutter speeds than what can be managed by hand-holding the camera. However, there are certain situations where using a monopod is very convenient.

The main advantage of a monopod over a tripod is its smaller footprint, so it can be used in crowded places, such as at sporting events. Sport photography often requires a long telephoto lens (I usually shoot soccer or rugby with a Canon EF 300mm f/2.8L IS USM and of course, there is Nikon counterpart: Nikon 300mm f/2.8G AF-S ED VR II). It is important to support a long lens not only to avoid fatigue (these lenses are heavy!), but also to reduce camera shake. At many venues, tripods are not allowed, as they take too much space, but monopods can be used. Sometimes, a monopod can be used as a makeshift stationary camera support in very tight spaces, when it is clamped to some heavy object. I have used it in this way in a research laboratory and also at a sporting arena where tripods were not allowed (by clamping the monopod to advertisement panels that surrounded the pitch).

It is also easier to move around with a monopod, even without folding it, to follow the subject.

There are two options for attaching the monopod to the lens (or camera): using a head or using a lens collar. I tried both methods and found that using a collar is more convenient. In the photo above, Armando has his 500mm f/4L lens attached to a gimbal head. When using a head, it should not be tightened too much, so that the camera can be be turned quickly. An alternative is to attach the lens hood directly to the monopod and tilt the entire system slightly to adjust framing. Since long telephoto lenses have a narrow field of view, small inclinations of the camera result in large changes in the framing. The collar should be kept relatively loose, to be able to quickly change from horizontal to vertical camera orientation. Most telephoto lenses have collars, so monopods are usually sold without a head.

When shooting, I find it convenient to angle the monopod and keep its lover end pressed against my foot. This prevents it from slipping on hard or slippery surfaces.

Genrally, I find a monopod quite useful for sports photography, but I would reach for it only if using a tripod is not allowed, impossible or too cumbersome.

AA5Q1832_10-04-2014.jpg

Photo contests

AA5Q8325_02-08-2014-Edit.jpg

Whether participating in photo contests is useful for one’s development as a photographer or not, depends on the photographer, or rather, on what he/she takes away from the contest.

Some contests are judged by a panel of judges, while many online contests (in various Flickr groups, for example, such as Matchpoint Challenge or Flickr’s 100 Best) are adjudicated by the participants themselves. There are even popular sites dedicated to head-to-head photo “duels” (e.g. pixoto). Some sites, e.g. 500px, do not run contests per se, but give photographers bragging rights by ranking their photos and portfolios based on their popularity.

While no competition is objective, I personally value them for the feedback they provide regarding my photos. Incidentally, I found that off-line contests are largely useless from that perspective. Sometimes, the outcomes are surprising, in a sense that some of my personal favourite photos do not resonate with the audience, while others that I do not particularly care about (I would enter them because they fit the theme of a contest, for example) become hugely popular.

AA5Q9088_02-08-2014.jpg

It is also interesting to see that different audiences prefer different trends. For example, the 500px community, which consists mostly of photographers, favours more subtle, elaborate post-processing effects than the pixoto community. Pixoto is more representative of a general population, and the preference is given to brighter, more saturated colours and generally images that “pop” more.

Participating in contests gives focus to photography when otherwise might be no external motivation to go out and shoot or creatively process images. Doing this regularly is an important practice for developing one’s skills.

I think that just as it is important for improving my work, receiving criticism helps me develop thick skin regarding the opinion of other people about my work. It may sound counter-intuitive: why invite feedback if what you learn is to ignore it? But it is not ignoring the harsh comments that is valuable, but rather learning not to take them personally. Any artist consciously makes him/herself vulnerable by putting out his/her work out for the World to see and judge. Nevertheless, even though our work is an expression of ourselves (to a degree, this is true of any work, not just photography or art), it does not define ourselves. Developing this concept requires practice, and contests provide such opportunity.

_MG_3821_02-09-10-Edit.jpg

Taking great photos consistently

Craft

A question of consistently making significant contributions to one’s field is continuously relevant in my main work, which is academic research in fluid mechanics. I believe that it is also important in photography.

No doubt, taking even a single amazing photo is not easy, but every now and then, even if you know nothing about photography and don’t have the best camera, you will take a great photo just by blind luck. Probably, most amateur photographers have had this experience. However, producing great, or even above-average, image consistently is much more difficult. It takes dedication of a professional to develop one’s skill to that level.

I have been thinking about what is required to make consistent significant contributions to a field (in this case, photography) and came up with the following list:

  • Knowledge about the techniques: how a camera works, principles of lighting, composition, image processing, etc.
  • Equipment that is capable of producing above-average results in variety of settings/conditions (read: expensive, pro-level camera(s), lenses and lights).
  • Learning about the work of other photographers/artists: regularly looking at great images. Thankfully, it is very easy these days with online resources like Flickr or 500px.
  • Learning directly from others. This includes working closely with other photographers, receiving feedback on your work and generally involving people in your projects.
  • Practice: shooting regularly, which directly contributes to developing the skills of framing the shot, focussing properly, smoothly releasing the shutter, etc.
  • Support from family/loved ones. Well, I suppose that if there is no one in your life, it is still quite possible to be a great photographer, but for me personally, my wife’s is involved in all aspects of our photo projects, from brainstorming the ideas to helping during the shoots (or taking care our daughter while I go shooting) to giving feedback on images, has been tremendously helpful. It is not an exaggeration that she simply enables my photography.

AA5Q6094_09-20-2014.jpg

Printing photo albums

AA5Q1372_07-08-2014.jpg

I have been looking through various options for printing an album for the wedding photo portfolio to showcase my and Armando’s work in that area. While both of us printed photo books before, we wanted to try a top-quality printing company for this project.

These days, there are so many online printing/binding companies that selecting the top one is quite difficult. My personal experience to date has been with the White House Custom Colour (not with books per se, but with gallery wrap prints). The quality was excellent, and one of the canvas prints hangs on our living room wall. I also ordered a couple of books through Apple, directly from iPhoto. I very much liked the result, and the workflow was very intuitive. However, I feel that a wedding portfolio calls for a more substantial binding.

Our top two choices were KISS and The Leather Craftsmen. Both companies came highly recommended by professional photographers in podcast interviews. Both websites have a registration process that involves verification of the user as a professional photographer. After my registration was approved (Yey! An external validation that I am a pro!), I was able to see the price lists. The prices of the albums from both companies are comparable, and they are significant – certainly not what we can afford to just try out by ordering a few different options. That is why it is a difficult choice.

We decided to go with The Leather Craftsmen because of the wider range of available formats. The KISS offers only square format, which is simple, but somewhat limiting for what we want to print. I am looking forward to trying the procedure for preparing the photos and designing the layout of the book and, of course, to seeing the final product.

AA5Q1393_07-08-2014.jpg