MUBA – experiencing the world first-hand

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We thought that Milan children’s museum (Museo dei bambini – MUBA) would be a good place to visit as a change of pace from more conventional museums we’ve been to in the past couple of weeks.

The MUBA is a neat place. The building itself stands in the middle of a garden, enclosed by a hexagonal baroque colonnade, Rotonda della Besana, which used to be a cemetery. It has multiple gates, but only one of them was open, so the inner courtyard was like a quiet oasis in the middle of a busy neighbourhood. Groups of teenagers were sitting on the steps of the colonnade, listening to music, hanging around, chatting, doing nothing. There was also a playground for small kids, but no-one was there, so our daughter had it all for herself, until she became cold, and we moved on.

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I realized that we’ve been pre-conditioned by our North American lifestyle to view teenagers hanging around as kind of delinquents by default – “Don’t they have anything better to do?” If there would be a bunch of 5-year-olds running around the playground, this would be another story – they would be playing, and playing is what 5-year-olds do. It is their job. They learn about the world through play.

I think this is not fair to the teens, though. Actually, hanging around in groups is what teenagers are supposed to do too. This is social networking in the best sense of the word. Teen years is when people learn to interact within the social groups, so hanging around together is, in fact, the best thing those guys and girls could do with their time. They were also learning about the world.

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The MUBA concept itself reminded me of Montessori system of education – the kids get to touch, scratch, push, kick everything, and through all this get some sort of educational input. The show, if it is the right term, that we went to was called “Forbidden not to touch”. It was design to showcase the ideas of tactile and kinesthetic learning developed by Bruno Minari, an artist and inventor, who was a native of Milan.

The museum website implied that it would be well suited to English speakers, but it turned out to be almost entirely in Italian. That was not a problem, though. The nature of the activities the kids were doing and the body language of the group leader were so self-explanatory that our daughter had no trouble following along with the group. That in itself was an impressive illustration of Munari’s concept with its departure from the conventional instructional mode.

Initially, our daughter was missing the group leader’s feedback. In fact, the leader was encouraging the kids to share their impressions after exploring each station. At that point, she did realized that our daughter did not understand Italian and switched to English with her.

To be fair, the crawling-touching-rubbing nature of the activities gave plenty of tactile feedback. It was certainly fun to watch, photograph and videotape (does anyone actually use tape anymore?). Incidentally, each child has to accompanied by an adult in these shows and vice versa – an adult is admitted only with a child.

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One serious drawback of this hands-on group activity is that it is a very efficient way for kids to contract and spread viruses. In fact, our daughter came down with a nasty stomach bug the next day after the visit to the museum. We even had to call a doctor for her. A home visit from a pediatrician is a luxury that doesn’t exist in Canada, so we were pleasantly surprised by how smooth and ‘human’ this experience had been.

It does put things in perspective when I think about he quality of life in Europe and Canada.

There is no way to say which place is better for living in the most general sense. The dottoressa, who treated our daughter was very nice and caring (and did I mention she came to our home right away?!)

That is all very nice, but the doctor said that the winter is not a good time for kids in Milan. The pollution is so high, that she said she always suggests leaving the city and going to the lakes “to breathe fresh air” at every opportunity. There is certainly a nasty flu going around the city. The doctor said the things would improve by March, when the weather changes. There is no ignoring the fact that we now live in a large, noisy, crowded, polluted city. The contrast with Victoria is particularly striking. Over there, we take the cleanliness of the air and the streets for granted.

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Drinking water is another thing that is very different here. A waitress asked us after learning that we were from Canada: “Is it true that the water in BC is so delicious that you can drink it right from the tap?” Yes, you actually can. Here in Milan, this is an impossibility. No restaurant serves tap water, and people use enormous numbers of plastic. Empty plastic bottles is the main material that children use for DIY projects in our daughter’s school.

It is a curious disbalance: the European lifestyle is distinctly more progressive, socially responsible, cultured and sustainable than the North American one in some respects, while distinctly backward in others. Some of the details that make up the country’s way of life are impossible to notice during a short visit. It takes living here over a substantial time period to start interacting with the place in more meaningful ways: finding were to buy good food, how to get plain point A to point B efficiently, how to call a doctor and where to go with a child on a rainy weekend.

Favourite colours

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Our daughter has been attending a new school while we are in Milan. They asked the children to bring their own sets of coloured pencils to be used in art classes.

Here is the state of our daughter’s set after one month of use. I thought that the remaining length of the pencils is a nice visual representations of which colours she favours and by how much.

I wanted to take this picture, because it seems to me straight out of “The Day the Crayons Quit” by Drew Daywalt, and illustrated by the great Oliver Jeffers. Our daughter received this book as a birthday present, but I might have enjoyed it even more than she did.

Not to over-analyze our daughter, but I think the picture shows that she prefer bright colours overall. The exceptions are the white, which is not a very practical colour for drawing on white paper anyway, and the dark yellow, which is a bit redundant, given the that there are two other yellow pencils in this set, both of them well-used. And of course, pink is still the strong favourite.

Incidentally, I once heard in popular science television show in Japan that there was a correlation between the preference for pink colour and health of middle-aged and elderly women. The hypothesis was that liking the pink colour, which is traditionally associated with youth, encourages women to maintain a youthful state of mind, which in turn leads to better health.

Even if there no causation here, I am glad that our daughter sees the world mostly in bright colours. I hope this trend continues as she grows up, and her brightly-coloured pencils and crayons will always be stubby.

Sabbatical as an intermediate disturbance

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I am not going to say that going on sabbatical in Milan for half a year with my family is not a great opportunity. I fully realize that, relatively speaking, it’s a privilege, and I do value it. Without exception, everyone we know, who heard about our travel for the first time, said that something ranging from “I wish I could go with you” to “It sounds like something out of a romantic novel”.

Having said this, my subjective view of the experience has been evolving from the the excitement of the initial planning, through the realization that it would take a substantial logistical effort to move the household to the stress of settling in the new town.

After everything is said and done, I absolutely think that coming here was worth the effort. Just as a note, I am writing this after living in Milan for three weeks. I will keep you updated as my opinion changes or reaffirms.

Here is one reason why academic sabbaticals are perfect mechanisms of promoting creativity and enabling a variety of viewpoints on familiar issues.

I recently read about the seminal work of Joseph Connell, a biologist, who established a framework for the so-called “intermediate disturbance hypothesis”. The idea is that in order to allow biodiversity in a certain geographical region, this area needs to be exposed to a periodic disturbance of a medium strength, like a tall tree that sometimes falls in the middle of a forest or a storm that rips through a coral reef once in a few years. The disturbance temporarily dislodges a dominant species in that area and allows other species to compete for resources (e.g. sunlight).

There are two key factors in this concept:

1. A significant disturbance is necessary for diversity (otherwise, one species would croud out the others).
2. The disturbance should not be too harsh or too frequent (otherwise, only the hardiest species would be able to survive).

Since Connell’s discovery in the 1950’s, people have drawn parallels between the intermediate disturbance hypothesis applied to biology and its apparent validity in other areas. In fact, I learned about it in Charles Duhigg’s book “Smarter Faster Better”, where he argues that it applies to a generalized creative process.

I think that an academic sabbatical, which, in the case of my university, can be taken once in every seven years, is a perfect example of a medium disturbance to the dominant modes of thinking and of dealing with everyday problems that we all have a tendency to develop and follow. Specifically, I think that travelling to a foreign country and collaborating with colleagues by physically joining their research group satisfies the key requirements of a medium disturbance.

First, going on sabbatical is undoubtedly stressful, notwithstanding all the romantic concepts of travelling to Italy or another location with an exotic flair. We are forced to adapt to the foreign customs and to learn the logistics of living in a new city. Also, joining another research group and the closeness of collaboration with other researchers compels us to internalize their viewpoints and and ways of approaching problems.

Second, the stress of sabbatical travel is not so severe that it forces us to completely uproot your way of life. Also, the sabbaticals, don’t happen too often to completely prevent routine and procedures from taking root.

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I really hope that this year’s trip will provide just enough disturbance to broaden my, and my family’s view of the world and our own life. Incidentally, I an noticing that our five-year-old daughter is definitely more adaptable to the transition to the new place than I am. For example, I am sure that if the word “stress” was in her vocabulary, she would not have chosen it to describe her initial experience here in Milan. This is the evidence that a child’s outlook to the world is inherently more diverse that that of an adult. Somewhere, along the way of growing up, one way of thinking crowds out the alternatives, just like a dominant species of plants in an Australian forest steals the sunlight from the other plants, and it takes some uprooting to open one’s mind to creative possibilities.

People in Piazza Gae Aulenti. Milan. Italy.
People in Piazza Gae Aulenti. Milan. Italy.

Victoria to Milan with a five-year-old

Here are a few notes for travelling half-way across the globe for sabbatical with a five-year-old.

No matter how far in advance we wanted to start packing, we finished the night before our flight. Actually, my wife and I didn’t get much sleep at all that night, because we also had to prepare our house, which was being rented during our leave. Fortunately, our daughter is a good sleeper, so she had a good rest before the trip. She also likes travel – all aspects of it from packing to going to the airport to the flight itself to getting settled in the new place. This is her sixth major overseas trip, so she is a seasoned traveller by now.

Also, we learned from experience that no matter how efficient the airport workers look from a distance, luggage gets delayed far more often than we would like. This time, unfortunately, was not an exception, and one of our bags did not arrive to Milan with us. We know from experience not to pack all my stuff into one bag, all my wife’s stuff into another, etc. Instead, we pack a little bit of each family member’s clothes into each peace of the checked luggage, so if one suitcase gets lost (or hopefully just delayed), none of us is stranded without clothes. When the missing bag did show up three days later, our daughter was delighted to finally have her coloured markers, which she had already started to miss.

In terms of keeping the the child entertained, we were quite lucky and didn’t have to do much, because as I mentioned, our daughter is excited about the trip itself. She is also not a picky eater, but during the trip especially we make a point of letting her choose whatever she wanted, even if it meant pizza three times in a row.

DSC02929_01-03-2017Nothing helps the child’s mood as well as a new stuffy toy! We picked up a toy kitten at the Frankfurt airport, and our daughter didn’t let it go until the following day. We also brought another toy with us, one that was new to our daughter. It was a construction set, where you can build various shapes out of small plastic balls with hooks that attach to each other. I remember playing in a similar way with dried burs. Probably, the designers of the toy used burdock as the inspiration. Anyway, it’s a great toy for travel – lightweight and can be used in many configurations. Our daughter received it as a present for the New Year, but we asked her to keep it specifically for the trip.

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I also find that I need to entertain myself during the long trip. Usually, when I travel alone, I find that I can work quite productively on the plane and while waiting for connecting flights at airports. This time, I did not want to work because we were travelling all together, and because I was too tired from the lack of sleep to be productive anyway. Taking pictures and shooting video was a perfect way to stay somewhat focussed and entertained at the same time. I am delighted that our daughter is taking interest in photography too. She always wants to check the photos on the camera screen, asks me to take a picture of something she finds interesting and even sometimes does so herself.

We checked into the rental apartment nearly 24 hours after we left home. The first thing we did is to go out for some pizza (naturally!), and found it to be decidedly better in Milan than in Vancouver. On the way back to the apartment, we picked up some groceries, and I was once again surprised and how upbeat and positive our daughter had been despite literally falling asleep in the taxi just a couple of hours earlier. At that point in the day, it was I who needed to maintain my mood, and she was being an excellent example. So I can say that at least based on our experience, long-distance travelling with kids is not only feasible, but in many ways more enjoyable than travelling alone or as a couple.

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The purpose of travel blogging

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I have been thinking about the purpose of blogging. I like the idea that daily writing, or any creative process for that matter, is an integral part of forming the thoughts and opinions. In other words, you don’t actually know what you really think about a particular topic until you capture your thoughts in writing. A similar concept applies to capturing visual impressions in photos, paintings, etc.

Incidentally, sometimes we can formulate opinions and understanding by “talking them out” instead. I heard that Hemingway used to do this with his books. Here lies a bit of danger: unless you are as good as Hemingway, talking about your creative ideas might actually prevent you from writing about them (or painting them or doing the photo shoot). It can happen because talking does serve the purpose of fleshing out the ideas, but it is much easier than creating something persistent and tangible, like a pice of writing or an object of visual art. I believe this is why Seth Godin’s advice to writes is to keep their mouths shut about their book ideas until they actually have the books published and thus ready to be discussed.

Also, blogging is different from journalling, because the latter is private (and has a unique usefulness precisely because of that), while the former offers a way to practice expressing the ideas publicly.

Then, there might be an inherent usefulness of blogs to the audience, beyond mere entertainment. For example, yesterday, I was thrilled to discover that one of the first web publications I have read when I was a graduate student (which, given my age relative to the age of the Internet, makes it one of the first web publications, period), Philip Greenspun’s “Travels with Samantha” is still online and, as far as I remember, is in it’s original format. This is a travel blog/photo blog that was written before either of these terms existed. In retrospect, reading it, as well as photo.net, which was Greenspun’s personal website at the time (and the format and the content of which has changed significantly over the years), was a significant experience for me..

The mere fact that I still remember “Travels of Samantha” after all these years means that it must have had some effect on me. The rudimentary early ideas of mobile computing, my interest in hardware and gadgets, the interest in photography and my approach to it – they were shaped by Greenspun’s travel notes and photos. All these connections were completely hidden from me at the time.

Perhaps this blog might also turn out to be useful for someone in some mysterious way.

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Ramen

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In Japan, rituals are important. For example, the proper way of eating food, the order in which it should be eaten, etc. can be very intricate. But the neat thing is that these rules often originate from practical considerations.

With ramen, for example, it’s good to take a few sips of the broth first, before eating the noodles. There are at least two reasons for this:

First, the broth is what makes a ramen bowl distinct. It usually takes hours to make and there are various kinds of it. My favourite, at Kuma Noodles in Victoria, BC, is the miso flavour. Besides the broth, what makes ramen unique to a particular region and to a particular chef is the level of saltiness, the type of noodles and the toppings.

Second, the noodles are still cooking while you are tasting the broth. By the way, it is considered polite to slurp the noodles, and there is a practical reason for this too: slurping actually cools the noodles, which are very hot. Also, because ramen is best eaten while it is hot, it is polite not to talk while eating it and to eat it quickly.

Having said all this about table manners, I was told once by a Japanese friend that the best way to show respect to the chef is to relax, enjoy the food and not be concerned about the rules. …Of course, it might have been just a polite way of making us, the gaijin, not over-think reigi too much. As with many Japanese things, I will never know…

Exhibit setup – behind the scenes

Panoramic view of Siena. Italy.

When my wife and I came back from a 3-week-long trip from Italy in 2009, we brought back about 15,000 photos, which now seems like not a big deal, but at that time it was a huge amount and a logistical challenge in terms of storage, processing, etc.

Now, as I was re-visiting them 7 years later, to prepare an exhibit at a local coffee shop, the challenge was to select just a few images from that set and to decide how to display them them next to each other: what sizes to print, for example. So I chose my favourite photo from the entire trip – the Florentine sunset, and printed it as the larges gallery wrap I knew we would be able to display – a 24 x 36 in canvas. We brought in to the cafe, held it against the wall, and at that point in became apparent what other images would work, at what size, how to position them relative to the main print.

The rest was, as you can see in the video, a matter of sticking the hooks to the wall, after double- or triple-checking the measurements, and voilà – we have a personal exhibit!

Coming back vs never leaving

Ha'penny Bridge. Dublin, Ireland.
Ha’penny Bridge. Dublin, Ireland.

“Why do you go away? So that you can come back. So that you can see the place you came from with new eyes and extra colors. And the people there see you differently, too. Coming back to where you started is not the same as never leaving.”

Terry Pratchett, “A Hat Full of Sky”

Settling down, becoming attached to a place where you leave is definitely efficient. When you know your town, for example you free up significant decision-making bandwidth by not having to decide on the bets route for getting from point A to point B, where to buy the best bread, and many other elements of the everyday logistics. In other words, you can put yourself on an autopilot and delegate processing of many daily situations to already-developed habits.

It can also be argued that the feeling of being settled, content with our environment is healthy from the psychological standpoint. However, there are drawbacks to becoming too comfortable. Relying exclusively on pre-existing habits day in and day out diminishes our present state awareness. If our environment never changes, there is little incentive to continually sharpen our skill of creating mental models. Changing our physical environment is an effective way to force ourselves to be more aware, more open-minded, more flexible and agile in forming our view of the world. When we travel, we train ourselves to become less dependent on having the life unfold exactly on our terms.

The concept of going away and coming back to the same place is much broader than just travelling in the literal sense. In photography, for example, it is useful to periodically shake things up by shooting different subjects, using different gear or post-processing techniques. If after trying the new workflow, style, business model, etc., you decide that it is not for you and you find yourself exactly at the starting point, this is an illusion. The point only appears the same. By coming back to it after taking a detour, you gain experience, skills and a broader view of the field of your work. And this makes you a different person, compared to those, who never left the comfort of their niche.

Ponte Vecchio. Florence, Italy.
Ponte Vecchio. Florence, Italy.

The big picture

Ukai in Inuyama, Japan.
Ukai in Inuyama, Japan.

At my daughter’s school, they told a story about how when we like something, there are usually some aspects of that “thing” that, while not pleasant by themselves, can be tolerated or even enjoyed when taken as part of the entire experience. For example, we may love our puppy, and because of that we learn to like waking up early to take him for a walk, which is a part of the experience of having a puppy.

I recently came across a similar concept in Charles Duhigg’s “Smarter Faster Better” in the context of psychology of motivation. During basic training, when faced with particularly gruelling exercises or harsh conditions, the US Marines are taught to ask each other questions containing the word “why?” This is done to focus the attention on the underlying motivation for doing the big job and to add meaning to the seemingly meaningless, tedious task at hand.

This techniques is effective in many settings, but it is particularly useful in creative endeavours. In photography, for example, the most fun part of the project might be to shoot beautiful subjects or to receive the compliments on our work. Getting to these fun stages, however, requires significant background work in terms of planning, production and post-processing. Doing many of these tedious tasks can easily snuff out the initial motivation for the project, unless we remind ourselves in the process, that it is all part of the big picture and a necessary component of getting to the really enjoyable part.

I experienced a perfect case of this during my trip to Japan a few years ago, where I had an unplanned opportunity to photograph ukai in a small historic town of Inuyama, close to Nagoya. Ukai is a fascinating traditional way of fishing that uses trained cormorants, who chase the fish underwater, catch it and then release it to their human handlers. I really wanted to see the process, take pictures, and show them to people, but in order to do this, I had to wait for several hours for the ukai tour to start. The waiting itself, in the humid heat of the Japanese summer, with heavy photo gear on my back, in the town where all tourist attractions were located within a couple of blocks (and most of which I had visited by that time) could have been quite miserable. However, I knew that it was a part of the entire experience, and in retrospect, I enjoyed it almost as much as watching the fishing itself and capturing one of my most popular photographs to date.

Another example, where the tedious part is integral to the entire experience, is travel. Dealing with pre-trip planning and arranging the logistics can be stressful. On the positive side, this preliminary stage not only makes the destination more enjoyable when we get there, but it also becomes a significant part of the travel experience itself by priming us (through anticipation) to what we are going to see, eat, and photograph. In order to appreciate this stage, we need to remind ourselves why are going on the trip as we are booking tickets, packing the bags and standing in line at the airport. Not all parts of travelling are equally fun, but all can be enjoyed if we remain conscious of the big picture.

Artist Kyoko Takatsu at work in her studio in Inuyama, Japan.
Artist Kyoko Takatsu at work in her studio in Inuyama, Japan.

Analytical observation: why we like what we like

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Last year in Milan, I saw two exhibits related to Leonardo da Vinci’s work. One displayed his original notebooks, and the other, Leonardo3, showed models of his engineering designs. What impressed me the most is how much Leonardo was able to accomplish, both as an artist and as a scientist, by simply observing nature. When I think about it a little deeper, though, I realize that he was not “simply” observing the phenomena that interested him – he was was simultaneously analyzing them.

Cultivating the skill of analytical observation of everything that surrounds us is tremendously useful, even just as an exercise in concentration, which, in turn, is a basis for any deep work. One effective way of doing it is to start with things that genuinely interest you and to try to answer the question “Why am I interested in it?” For example, if it is a movie, a book or a piece of art, instead of engaging with it as a form of escapism, it would be more productive (and, arguably, more enjoyable) to think about what makes the object so interesting while we are watching/reading/observing it.

In fact, I think there are three questions that set up a framework for analysis on any piece of creative work, from a piece of art to a scientific paper. Cal Newport identified them as part of his process of reviewing technical papers.

  1. What is the main point of the work (what makes it good/interesting)?
  2. What makes it different from other works (books/photographs/research projects)?
  3. What techniques were used to achieve the result?

Perhaps, applying this framework to our everyday activities, would put us at risk of making everything we do too mechanical, robbing us of the joy of doing thing purely for fun, without any agenda. On the other hand, this can be a way to a more mindful way of doing things we like and in the process learning about these things and about ourselves.

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