In the Summer of 2009, my wife and I spent three weeks travelling in Italy, and one of the major highlights of the trip was a five-day visit to Siena during its most famous event – the Palio. Palio di Siena is such a unique phenomenon, that to describe it simply a bareback horse race along the edges of Piazza del Campo, a seashell-shaped medieval square, is to give it no justice. Palio is held twice a year, in July and August, and these festivities are a culmination of a year-long strategic battle between seventeen city wards (‘contrade’). The race itself, which involves ten hired jockeys, is just a tip of the iceberg representing tremendous effort and level of involvement of nearly every Sienese. The rivalry between the contrade are phenomenal.
When we started planning the trip, we quickly discovered that it was impossible to visit Palio and not become involved in it. This is no exaggeration, but rather a part of the medieval tradition, where visitors of the festivities (basically, tourists) would lodge within a certain contrada, dine with the locals, spend money and, by doing so, support the contrada. We delegated the travel arrangements of the Palio-related portion of our trip to Vacanza Italy, a travel agent based in Canada, who has local Italian connections. They booked us into hotel Ciusarelli, located just a short walk from Piazza del Campo.
A side note of a curious episode, which was very representative of the whole Italian approach to life, which was very fascinating to us, since we became quite “americanized” in our views (living in Canada still does it to you): We could not navigate our way to the hotel’s front door to unload the baggage, as it would require driving about 300 meters wrong way on a one-way street. After asking a police (‘carabinieri’) lady what to do, we were instructed to do precisely that (drive against the traffic) and park temporarily on the sidewalk in front of the hotel, “because you have a good reason for doing this.”
Our local contact named Stella met us at the hotel and informed that we would join the ‘Lupa’ (she-wolf) contrada. We were delighted to wear out black-white-and-gold scarves for the next four days and to get into the Palio spirit. Unfortunately, it was ‘Civetta’ (owl) contrada that won that time.
As far as photography is concerned, the main challenge with the race itself is getting into the good position close to the track. The best opportunities for shooting are during the practice races that happen twice a day (morning and evening) during the three days before the parade and the final race. Each of the practice races draws an incredibly huge crowd. You can get a sense of the chaos by watching the opening action sequence of “Quantum of Solace”
Besides the races, there are other tremendous opportunities for travel photography during the Palio: street portraits, architecture, cityscapes, etc. Siena remains my most memorable photography-centered trip. To summarize the take-home message from the experience of photographing Palio di Siena, I can say that it required advance planning of the travel logistics (hotel and tickets have to be booked as a package) and flexible mindset while on site, as things appear chaotic and disorganized, but they do work out – they always have, from the early days of Palio in the 14-th century.
